The Clock Jobber's Handybook

By Paul N. Hasluck

Brought to you by:

Tick Tock Productions ™

The

CLOCK JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK.

CHAPTER 1. Various Clocks Described.

CLOCKS are represented by various types, each possessing distinctive peculiarities. England, France, Germany and America, each contribute to furnish the large number of clocks distributed through the whole world. An account of the development of time measurers, from the days of sun-dials to the present time, will be found in THE WATCH JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK, which forms a companion volume to, and should be perused by all readers of, this Handybook.
The manufacture of clocks in England at the present time is principally confined to spring dials, high class regulators, skeleton, bracket, chime, electric and turret clocks. The trade in ordinary house clocks has long since become very small, the cheaper productions of America and Germany, or the more artistic and less cumbersome designs from France, having almost entirely supplied our wants. At the same time there will be found in English homes, especially in rural districts, a very large number of old English house clocks, testifying to the skill and ability of our forefathers. These clocks are of two kinds : the " thirty hour," which requires winding daily, and the " eight day," which requires winding once a week. They are generally characterised by the solidity of both their mechanism and case, and are certainly the most durable and best timekeepers for general use ; the only objection which can be fairly raised against them is their cost. As to the shape of the case, against which some make objection, there is many a piece of furniture still retained, much less ornamental, and certainly not so useful as the old English long-case clock. Respecting their durability, some of these old clocks have faithfully discharged their duty for upwards of a hundred years without being worn anything like so much as most modern clocks are in the course of seven years' use. They were made originally in most towns of importance, each maker cutting his own wheels and finishing the movement throughout, the case often being supplied by the local cabinetmaker. The same treatment in cleaning, repairing and adjusting is not applicable to all clocks, and some particulars of the distinct varieties in common use will be useful so that the beginner may distinguish the nationality and some other important details before commencing operations. Arranging clocks and timepieces in alphabetical order for convenience of reference we have : —
American Clocks, which are distinct from all others; they are made in large quantities by machinery, on the most economical principles. Being very cheap, tolerably good-looking, and fair time-keepers, American clocks are exceedingly popular, and generally at least one specimen has a place in every household where clocks are to be found at all. Some few have weights, which are arranged to fall the entire height of the case, but nearly all have springs. Small timepieces for the mantel, and large dials for the wall, are made, and also every other variety that is saleable. The small original cost of these American productions, their really serviceable timekeeping qualities, and their good looks combine to make them favourites. The main-springs of these clocks are peculiar, as they are not fitted into a barrel. The inner end, or eye, is hooked to the arbor of the wind-up square in the usual way. The outer end is formed into a loop, which is slipped upon one of the frame pillars. The accompanying illustration, Fig. i, shows the main-spring as bought from the material shops. The piece of iron wire, which confines it, is taken off when the mainspring is put in place, a few turns of the wind-up square will allow this iron wire to fall off. It is a good plan to use similar irons to keep the main-spring within limits when taking these clocks apart. When examining American clocks that fail to go satisfactorily, try the pinions to see if they are tight on the arbors, for they are often loose.

An effectual way to secure them is with a little soft solder, taking great care afterwards to thoroughly clean off all the soldering fluid with chalk and water, and finally oil the arbor slightly all over. When the pendulum wabbles it is owing to the suspension spring being crippled, that is, twisted, bent or partially broken, or it may be loose in the stud, or there may be want of proper freedom for the pendulum wire in the crutch. To adjust the striking works of an American clock is not a difficult job to anyone who has some mechanical knowledge, though the operation is not easy to describe on paper in language which may be easily understood by those unversed in the technicalities of horology. First take the hands off the clock by removing the small pin which is put diametrically across the centre square, then take off the dial by removing the pins or screws which secure it to the case. The movement is now open to inspection, and, in a very prominent position, will be found a wheel having saw-like teeth all round its edge, and also in addition some deep notches cut at irregular intervals, in one of which will be found the flattened end of a bent, hook-shaped iron wire. Put the minute hand on temporarily, and turn it round to make the clock strike. The hooked iron is lifted out of the deep notch, and when the clock strikes falls into the next space, which, if shallow, allows the fly of the striking train to continue to revolve, and the clock to continue to strike till the hooked wire falls into a deep notch, then the clock should cease striking, a tail of the hooked wire stopping the fly. All that has to be done is simply to adjust this hooked wire so that its tail properly stops the fly when its point is in any one of the deep notches. For this purpose it is only necessary to bend it, and a very little will suffice. As to how much to bend it, that must be left entirely to individual judgment, but by continually testing the striking, it will soon be got correct. The wire will stand any amount of bending, and a little practice will show the direction in which it should go. Each case is simply governed by the circumstances.

The cases of American clocks are generally of the cheapest possible construction. They are made in a few patterns of veneered moulding, in the cheapest manner possible. The wheels and frames are stamped to shape; the pinions used are those known as "lanterns," and are mostly all machine made. American clocks are mostly of the useful class — going thirty hours or eight days — timepieces, clocks, dials, and calendar clocks. There is also a variety called Anglo-American, the movements of which are made in America, and the wood cases, which are more solid than the ordinary American cases, are made in England. Bracket Clocks, so far as the mechanism is concerned, are like spring dials. The case is adapted to stand on a bracket, instead of to hang against the wall; and it is in this peculiarity that the difference lies. Bracket clocks were much in favour with past generations, and some may now be found fitted with the verge escapement. Chime Clocks, properly, are those which, in addition to striking the hour, play changes on a certain number of bells every quarter of an hour. Those clocks which play a tune every three or four hours are not, strictly speaking, chime, but musical clocks. Chime clocks are usually made either as bracket, skeleton or long case clocks. They have an extra train of wheels, working independently of the going and striking trains, which is also wound separately. These clocks are also known as quarter clocks. The number of bells on which the chime is played may be two or more. When only two bells are used the chime is termed a "ding-dong." Chime, musical and quarter clocks call for no especial remarks, beyond that it is advisable to well understand the action of the "letting-off" work, and the " run " allowed before taking to pieces. The arrangements differ so much that scarcely anyone is likely to have to deal with two actions precisely alike; but they seldom offer any great difficulty when ordinary care is taken. It is wise in some cases to keep the striking and chime parts separate while cleaning. Most of these clocks present features of construction favourable for improvement by reducing the friction. When this can be safely done, it is well to reduce friction at any point where it is noticed as being excessive, for, though the weights or springs are often very powerful, there is generally no power to spare. Electric Clocks are of two kinds — one, those in which the pendulum is kept in motion by the combined magnetism of permanent and electro-magnets, the poles of the latter being changed at every beat by the action of the pendulum. Another kind, driven by a weight in the usual manner, which would more properly be called controlled clocks, as the only work that electricity performs is to make the pendulum beat in unison with another belonging to a standard clock. English Dials are the ordinary English office clocks, which hang against the wall, and may be seen at most railway stations, and in shops and offices. This is the type most largely used of all English clocks, and close imitations of it are imported from America and Germany. The diameter of the dial is generally named to specify the size of the clock, and 9 in., 12in.,15in., &c., "dials," are spoken of. When the cases are circular, forming merely a rim to the dial, with a box to cover the movement, the clocks are called "round dials." In order to accommodate longer pendulums, a drop is added to the case, and then it is called a "trunk," or " drop dial." The pendulums of these clocks range from about seven inches to twenty inches long, and the train is, of course, calculated according to this length. The English spring dial has a fusee on which the gut line or chain is wound from the barrel. Directions for replacing a broken gut are given on page 10. The chain is repaired by first removing the broken piece of link from one end with a penknife, using it to slice the links apart; then the pair of links, as well as the broken piece, are removed from the other piece of chain, by the same means. This breakage is assumed to have occurred across a single link, as is invariably the case. On parting the links with the knife, the rivets will become loose and fall out, and the chain can be put in position with the holes in the links one over the other. A piece of steel wire filed up slightly tapering is put through, and cut off close on both sides, then riveted and made level with the side of the chain by the aid of Arkansas stone.
In Spring Dials, and also in Skeleton and Bracket Clocks, the motive power is produced by the uncoiling of a spring. Several parts are introduced which are not found in weight clocks — these comprise the barrel, to contain spring, fusee, and stopwork. The cover of the barrel ought always to be removed when cleaning the clock, to ascertain the condition of the main-spring. If this is found to be dirty, it should be carefully removed with a pair of pliers, and cleaned with a little turpentine on a piece of rag. It may be replaced by winding it round its own arbor, which should be screwed in the
vice by the squared end. Take hold of the end of the spring with a pair of strong pliers, and wind it as tight as possible; then slip the barrel over it and carefully let go the spring, holding the barrel tight with the left hand until the spring has hooked. To try that it has hooked securely, before replacing it in the clock, put on the cover, clamp the end of the arbor in the vice, and turn round the barrel until the spring is felt to be quite up. A new spring can be put in in the same manner. Always oil the main-spring after it has been put in the barrel. When a new barrel-hook is required, select a piece of good steel, and file up a square pivot with a nicely-fitting shoulder, and fit in the hole in the barrel; then shape the hook, and rivet in its place. Clock movements which have fusees, and also those driven by weights, have all the power annulled in the process of winding. This stops the onward progress of the train, and, in some cases, even causes a backward motion. To obviate this, maintaining power is arranged. The fusee is liable to derangement of the clickwork, and when a chain is used, breakage of the chain hook-pin. In addition to the chain, there are two kinds of line used to connect the fusee with the barrel — the catgut and the metallic. Metallic lines are considered to wear better, look better, and are quite as cheap as gut lines. To ascertain the length required for a new line, fix one end in the fusee, and wind the line round in the groove till it is quite filled; then allow sufficient length beyond to go round the spring-barrel one turn and a half. When catgut lines are used, they should be slightly oiled. The method of fastening the ends is simple, and needs but little description. The fusee end is passed through the hole in the fusee, and tied in a simple knot; if a gut line, the end is slightly singed to render it less liable to slip. The 3- barrel end is passed through the holes in the following manner: — Inwards through the first hole, outwards through the second, and inwards through the third ; the end is then pushed through

the loop formed by the line passing through the first and second holes, as shown in Fig. 3.

_____________________________________________________________________________

Learn clock repair with these DVD courses! Course manuals are included.

Watch, study and learn antique clock repair through DVD course instruction using actual live repairs!!

Clock Repair 1 & 2 Advanced Clock Repair PRO advanced clock repair

Clockmaker Watchmaker Lathe Basics Clockmaker Watchmaker Lathe Projects Clock Case Repair & Restoration Wooden Works Movement Repair

Sitemap

Back to clock information page.

Hasluck, Paul N. The Clock Jobber’s Handybook. London: Crosby Lockwood and Son, 1889.

This and the following pages are excerpts from the book.